featuring beautiful architecture such as
puente de la mujer, the sculptural bridge designed by the prominent architect,
santiago calatrava, seemed impeccable, but the feature needed to contain some interesting story to tell. it was sheer chance that i got a contact of the legenary
argentine architect,
clorindo testa. i managed to arrange an interview with him.
testa is famous for his brutalist buildings (rough concrete & exposing pipes and ducts) but less known than other
argentine architects such as
cesar pelli and
rafael viñoly. he has certain admirers in
japan, though. before my interview, i and
ioana went down to
la plata, 50 km away from the city centre, to do a shoot on
casa curutchet, designed by the pioneer of brutalism,
le corbusier.
corbu’s house was not particularly well-preserved, however, looked pretty cool. although i like his architecture, i’m not fond of his personality. he was among my heroes when i was an art college student, but once i found that he painted (graffiti)
eileen gray’s house without asking her out of petty jealousy about her talent and popularity and the anecdote turned me off. apparently, he was not a big-hearted jolly chap. actually,
corbu was
clorindo testa’s inspiration. he was also an artist and so is
clorindo. in comparison,
clorindo is wonderfully bounteous. his smile tells so. i visited him in his
office+studio+home on
avenida santa fe (just 5 minute-drive from my apartment) after the shoot in
la plata.
my interview with the great and, personality-wise, incredibly modest architect gave me such pleasure.
clorindo never sounded like he, anchoring himself to his desk chair, was interested in fame or lucrative projects at all. as i asked him some question, he answered it drawing something on his sketch pad with a felt-tip pen, for instance a dinosaur that he personally associated with his work,
biblioteca nacional. and
porteños love it. we were going to do a shoot there, anyway. to avoid our possible bureaucratic hassle, he kindly wrote a letter to its director, seeking permission to take photos inside the library for
ioana and me. that sort of procedure could take weeks or even months.
summer day light in
buenos aires is too bright to take photos. so
ioana suggested finishing our shoot for the library’s exterior before the sun rose too high. she woke me up at 5:10 am the following morning to get there. the sun was not up yet, we were too early to take photos, however. it was ok. waiting was part of my work, really.
ioana tried her best to be helpful, but we both got exhausted from our own kind of perfectionism. all in all, our shoots including
banco de londres came off ok.
ioana left
buenos aires for a long summer break with her little daughter, while i carried on other shoots with
javier. when he left me for a prestigious and well-paid job in
urguay,
pablo took it over from him. then, my 2-month
porteña life was over.
i am prone to look back on those days in
buenos aires sentimentally, maybe. but i know that, if i had been a plain tourist there, the south
american city wouldn’t have stayed on my mind this way.